What to do with an old mink coat. Ideas for creativity, needlework

Updating the wardrobe before each season is a responsible event for any modern woman. But buying new things is not always possible. As a rule, for all this you need to have certain financial capabilities. Especially the purchase of winter things will cost a pretty penny. You can find an alternative and alter the fur coat with your own hands. Moreover, it probably hangs in the closet for quite a long time.

Preparatory work

Firstly, in order to alter an old fur coat with your own hands, you must initially decide on its future style. Secondly, you need to check the fur for damage. After all, a moth could eat it. Such areas will have to be cut out or replaced with new fur.

To alter a fur coat with your own hands, you can make patterns yourself, based on your size and the parameters of the finished fur coat. And you can copy them from any printed fashion publication.

First you need to evaluate the footage of normal fur so that it is enough for the model you like.

How to choose a model?

Modern women are able to immediately decide on the choice of style in order to alter a fur coat with their own hands. This takes into account:

• desired length;
• parameters of an old fur coat;
• woman size.

High representatives of the fair half with standard sizes can wear any fur coats. But for women with a non-standard figure, elongated models are recommended.

Many overweight women love fur ponchos. If they are made of smooth fur, then they can be worn. And if they are too fluffy, then it is better to abandon such models.

What can be used in the alteration of a fur coat?

Before altering a fur coat with your own hands, you need to add some zest to the model. Quite often, the style is complemented by:

• natural leather;
• suede;
• other fur;
• leatherette.

All this is taken into account in the development of the model.

What can be done with an old fur coat?

There are several options for updating such clothes:

• shorten;
• lengthen;
• to take in;
• completely change the style.

In such ways, altering a fur coat with your own hands is quite simple. It all depends on the fur and its quality, since in some cases it is necessary to work with natural material carefully.

Altered mink coat

Where to start work to alter a mink coat with your own hands? Initially, you need to try it on. At this stage, what exactly does not suit the model is evaluated. As a rule, such fur coats have classic loose silhouettes. May not suit:

• shoulder width;
• length of the product;
• its dimensions.

As soon as a flaw is found, you can begin to space the seams in the place that will be altered. It should be borne in mind that there is also a lining that can be sewn in or be loose.

It is very important when planning a model of a mink coat to take into account that it should be free, as it is one of the types of outerwear.

Also, attention is drawn to the fact that the mink coat consists of pieces of different sizes. If it is wrong to start work, then in the end the product will completely bloom.

If it is required to sew in the product, then the extra pieces of fur are cut out of the fur coat, and it must be stitched again. If large shoulders are removed, then the work may be slightly delayed. So, the shoulder seams are initially ripped, and if there is a high collar in the model, it is also torn off. Sleeves, back and front of the product are also subject to sewing.

Fur can only be sewn with special threads. In some cases, professionals recommend gluing the skins and seams. Quite often, for greater strength, a dublerin tape is laid in the line.

Altering the Mouton coat

This fur is quite practical to wear. Altering a muton fur coat with your own hands is quite simple. There is no need for gluing and laying doubler tape in the seam. Fur keeps its shape very well.

You will also need to initially determine what exactly does not suit you in the model. Basically, the snag will be only in the shoulders and in the model. It is usually flared. The product has a lining.

So, you need to start modeling a new fur coat, taking into account the chosen style. The product is completely ripped at the side seams and shoulders. Sleeves will be subject to "restoration" last.

A pattern is preliminarily drawn up on special paper. You need to build it according to your size, which take into account:

• shoulder width;
• chest height;
• chest volume;
• waist;
• growth.

It is worth considering that fur coats from any fur cannot be fitted. On such material it is impossible to make tucks. They can just ruin the style.

Especially if which is lush and soft fur.

The process of creating a new muton fur coat

Separate parts are laid out on a flat surface of a table or floor. Paper patterns are attached to them with the help of special needles. They need to be circled with chalk or plain soap.

An important point: you need to outline the pattern with a small margin. This will make it possible to properly sew together all the details. As a rule, 1-1.5 cm will be enough for this.

Once all the details are ready, they are swept together with a simple seam. Then the product is tried on, and its shortcomings are evaluated. It may be necessary to remove excess somewhere or release a little fur.

After everything suits you in the model, you can start connecting the parts on the sewing machine. To do this, a special needle for processing fur is inserted into the equipment. She's pretty sharp. You need to stitch in a zigzag pattern so that pile creases do not form on the outside of the product at the seams.

Then the seams need to be processed, since the fur will constantly crumble during wear. To do this, use a special overlock or set up a specific seam on the machine itself. Quite often, the seams are trimmed from the inside with a satin ribbon.

It is worth considering that the lining of the fur coat should be 1-2 cm smaller in its parameters than the product itself.

Lining seams must also be overlocked or made invisible.

When stitching, you need to pay attention to the fact that its wrong side will be facing the back of the fur, so that the product looks neat from the inside.

As soon as all the details, in order to alter the fur coat with your own hands, are ready, you can proceed to the complete assembly of the product. The lining is sewn to the seams on the shoulders and collar. Then it is fixed at the end of the sleeves. As a rule, it does not need lower fastening, since it must be a few centimeters shorter than the product so that it does not peek out from under the floor.

It is advisable not to touch fasteners and other decorative ornaments in the process of altering a fur coat. It is unlikely that you will be able to fix them on your own. The product can only be spoiled by poor workmanship.

Similarly, you can alter the astrakhan fur coat with your own hands. Only working with such fur is much easier. It is not fluffy and does not crumble.

Do you want to please your child with a warm rug in the form of a cat? We will show you how to sew a rug with your own hands. In modern homes, you can rarely see large rugs or carpets on the floor, the housewives know how much dust accumulates in them. Therefore, a small rug for the floor is a must-have in the house. It is not difficult to sew such a rug in the form of a cat. It will allow you to create a cozy atmosphere in your home, it is convenient for the baby to play on such a rug.

For work you will need:

1. Fur artificial 0.6 m with a long pile brown.
2. Fur artificial 0,6 m with a long pile white.
3. Pink piece of fabric for the nose.
4. Lining fabric (any, preferably cotton).
5. Threads.
6. Black threads for embroidery of the muzzle.
7. Sintepon.
8. Adhesive material flesofix double-sided (you can just baste the details)

We start by drawing a pattern on paper, cut out and cut out the upper part from white fur. We take brown fur, we will cut out 17 triangles and a bottom lining from it. For the lining, take a cotton fabric and cut out two parts from it.

We attach triangles to the upper part according to the figure. Then we make a spout, cut it out of pink fabric and fasten it with an iron and flesofix. It needs to be fixed additionally by processing the edges with a zigzag seam. After that, you can proceed to the design of the muzzle: with black embroidery threads we make mustaches, eyes and mugs on the muzzle. Now that the top (front) part is ready and embroidered, we can sew it along with the lining, while leaving allowances for the seams, as well as some space for stuffing.

Now you need to turn the rug on the front side, straightening all the seams, and fill it tightly with filler, and sew the open area with a blind seam by hand. The finished rug will measure 80 * 63 cm. Adults, children, and those who are cat lovers will appreciate such a gift or home decor.

lion cub

It is not difficult to sew a wonderful, warm and original carpet for a children's room. We will please your baby with a rug in the form of an African lion. You can sew from an old faux fur coat or a piece of faux fur (sold in the store). Just a little time and effort, in the end you can get the right rug.

For work you will need:

1. 1.4 m of fluffy soft fabric for the main part.
2. Brown fabric or leather for details.
3. Threads for embroidery muzzle.
4. Scissors.
5. Sewing machine (you can use small stitches on your hands).
6. Sintepon for stuffing.
7. Brown fringe or thick yarn.
8. Dark lining fabric.
9. Beige yarn for spots on the body

We draw the body of the Lion Cub on the main part with a felt-tip pen. We cut the main and lining.

We sew the body of the lion, leaving room to turn inside out. The lining should be thick.

We take a large plate, put it on the main fabric and circle it with a felt-tip pen - this will be the head of the Lion Cub. There are two round pieces. We draw a muzzle and ears on paper, transfer to the fabric. Cut out the details. Ears - 4 pieces, muzzle - 1 piece of white fabric.

We grind the details of the ears. Carefully draw the muzzle of a lion cub.

We designed, embroidered the muzzle, sew the head with the back of the head, leave a place for stuffing. When you grind the details of the head, put fringe or yarn in the seam instead of fringe and stitch.

Quote from Marriette Fur knitting. How to make fur yarn.

This morning I was looking for a very necessary and relevant topic for myself - how to make fur yarn. You can create masterpieces from fur yarn, if you know how to knit, of course) Below you will find ideas for inspiration, recommendations for cutting yarn, secrets of working with fur and methods of knitting with fur. When using old fur, it is advisable to strengthen it with diblirin. Pieces of fur made using the freeform technique are especially good. That's where the revelry for fantasy!

Cutting preparation.

In order to make it more convenient to cut, the skin is corrected, that is, sprayed with water from a spray bottle and stretched. But it is better to rule not with water, but with a special solution - grease, this will give elasticity to the skin and shine to the pile. There is such an American drug Elbomor, it is diluted as follows:

If the skin is rattling - 1: 3 (elbomor and water),

If the dressing is normal and the skin is natural, then 1: 5.

The dyed skin does not stretch well, so we also use 1: 3.

There is also a German drug furalastik.

So, they wetted it with a pulverizer, but lightly so that the skin was not wet. They rolled the skin into a roll, put it in a plastic bag and let it lie for about 30 minutes, or maybe a little more - for a colored skin. Next, we correct with carnation pegs or a stapler. We rule on a plank shield, you can take chipboard or some other similar material. After we fixed it at the muzzle and rump with staples or pegs, we correct the ridge, punching it. It is better to guide the ridge near the skin with a special wheel before straightening, then everything is visible from the side of the skin, and then it is convenient to work when cutting the strips. Next, after the ridge, we fix the rump part, evenly stretching the sides, so that the symmetry is preserved, then we break through the cross, this is the most poorly stretched place near the skin. And then we rule in the same way from the rump to the sides. After that, the backbone was removed, since the skin is already stuffed and we do not need the broken line of the backbone. We are waiting for it to dry. It's 8-10 hours.

Now you can draw stripes on the skin with a special gel rod or a simple pencil.

If the skin is old, then before cutting it can be lubricated with the following composition: beaten egg white from one egg, mixed with 1 tbsp. a spoonful of glycerin.

If a good soft skin, you can not edit at all. Just fasten the skin and cut. If the stripes are wide, it is better, nevertheless, to draw lines. And if you cut in strips of 3 mm, then you can cut without lines, it's more convenient. It is better to cut with a clerical knife, the tip of the blade.

How to cut

To make the fur ribbons longer, they are cut in a zigzag or in a spiral, according to this scheme, due to the different direction of the hair, the knitting is more fluffy. But other options for cutting strips are also possible. After all, we do not always need a long strip, in some cases it is more convenient to connect fur ribbons already in the process of knitting with fur, because it is inconvenient to work with long ribbons, for example, when pulling ribbons or braiding them.

What does it mean to cut in a zigzag? Cut across the skin, without cutting to the edge through one line by 0.5 cm. Whether it is convenient or not to knit with a ribbon cut in this way is a moot point. I think this option is suitable if you make a fur thread, that is, then twist this tape. And if you stretch the fur tape through the cells, then it is better to cut even strips.

There is such information that it is convenient to cut the whole skin with a “stocking” in a spiral, because then you get a long thread - the very thing for knitting with fur and the pile will be all in one direction. But in reality, it turns out that cutting this “stocking” is not at all convenient, so I would not recommend this option to you. However, see for yourself.

The fur thread is cut with a clerical knife or a blade by hand and you need to change the blades often, because they quickly become dull. A knife, in my opinion, is much more convenient and safer.

There is such information that, ideally, the skins are cut along the ridge, then they take strips from the ridge from all the skins, then the backs from all the skins, then the bellies from all the skins for work - knitting is then smooth-smooth according to the difference in the size of the fur. I would like to make some adjustments myself. When you knit with fur on a large scale, perhaps this will suit you. But when you first start learning how to knit with fur, it is unlikely that you will buy many skins at once, and even of the same type! one color. And therefore, most likely, you will have only one skin. So, in order to get fur ribbons from one skin with uniform, fluffy fur, you need to cut not along, but across the skin.

If we have a whole skin, it is better to cut across the skin, and if there are pieces of fur, then the choice is small, you will have to cut how it will turn out so that the stripes are longer.

But if you work with scraps, then you just need to sort at least by eye according to the length of the pile.

Twisting a fur thread

If we plan to knit with fur, namely, with fur thread, then our chopped fur ribbon still needs to be prepared, that is, twisted.

If we cut in a spiral or zigzag, then our ribbons are long. And if they were cut in short strips, now we are faced with the problem of how to connect the strips before twisting. We connect simply. There are two ways: sew or glue.

It is advisable to moisten the chopped fur before twisting, that is, not the fur itself, but the skin.

Moisten with this composition: 3-4 tbsp. tablespoons of water + 1 tablespoon of vinegar 9%. What will it give? The fur thread will become smoother, stretch a little, and thanks to vinegar, they will not unwind. And in the sock, the product will then be better tolerated by adverse weather conditions. You can dry it by wrapping stools around the legs. After drying, roll into balls.

How to twist? You can use a drill, or you can take a warp thread and wrap a fur strip around it. A special tool is also used for this purpose, it is used for knitting flies for fishing.

Regarding the options for connecting pieces of fur ribbons, on the subject of which option is better, opinions are divided. It’s better for one to sew, they say that gluing is a laborious task, but it’s of little use - everything will fall apart, but in general a thread and a needle save better and more reliably in further work. Others like to stick together more, and stitched, they say, often unravel. So here you need to choose what you like best. But if you glue, then you need to choose a good glue. They say that German furakol, special for fur, is a good glue. But you can also glue with ordinary leather glue or even super glue. You just need to prepare the ends of the fur ribbon. We leave one end as it is, and at the other end we cut off the fur a little. To glue, as well as to sew, we will overlap. To do this, cut the fur. They cut off the fur, smeared it with glue, quickly applied another tape, and glued it. The place of gluing should be small so that it is invisible, and the glue should be strong so that it does not come off. If we sew, then the stitching place also needs to be prepared by cutting off the fur on one side, and this place should also be small, and the threads should be strong.

Some people like knitted mink.

For example, you have mink trimmings, cut them into very narrow ribbons. Glue several ribbons together with leather glue. Then you twist them with a special tool, it is used to knit flies for fishing, but you can think of something else. Then roll into balls. It turns out mink yarn, of course, not always uniform in thickness, but in knitting it looks very even nothing. Knit with knitting needles with the addition of woolen thread. This is a long business, winding threads from mink, but worth it.

But in general, fur ribbons can be cut from any scraps of fur, not only mink. Fur trimmings can be bought by weight much cheaper than a whole skin.

Knitting with fur using the "knitting" method

If we have chosen such an option for knitting with fur, in which the fur is knitted, we do this. We knit a crochet product. To begin with, it is desirable to knit a sample for a couple of rows, then we take a strip of fur and knit it with an overlay, that is, the strip should be located, as it were, from the face of the product, and we tie it in the wrong row.

Knitting options.

1) You can knit fur in each row. At the same time, the yarn is practically invisible, the product looks completely fur.

A) We start knitting, as usual, with a series of air loops (or rings).

And repeat the next rows in the same way.

B) Again we start with air loops.

We repeat the second row.

B) Again air loops. Two lifting loops, a double crochet, again clasping the fur ribbon in front with a hook. And so we knit to the end of the row. The next rows are exactly the same.

This knit is very tightly wrapped around the fur.

D) Well, you understand that again there are air loops. Again, two lifting loops, a column with two crochets, crocheting around the fur ribbon in front, 1 air loop. Repeat until the end of the row. And so do the next rows. This knitting with fur turns out to be looser, more airy.

So, you noticed that the number and type of columns can be different, it all depends on the thickness of the yarn and on the condition of the core (soft or not). The worse the mezdra, the tighter we tie the strip of fur.

2) You can knit fur not in every row, but through a row.

In this case, the yarn will definitely be visible. The product will be more elastic. This option, it seems to me, is more suitable for hats. The product turns out to be fur and very plastic and elastic.

You can knit, for example, like this:

1 row air loops,

2 row is just a half-column with a crochet,

3 row half-column with a crochet, with knitting a strip of fur.

Knitting with fur by the "braiding" method

Weaving the base mesh with fur thread.

In order to braid the mesh with fur thread, we do this. First we need a grid. It can be crocheted by itself and in different shapes, for example, a beret or a hat or a bandage, if you want a fur knitted hat or a beret and so on. You can also buy netting, but this is a bit problematic, because tapestry netting is not suitable, as it is rigid and its cells are not fixed. So it’s better to knit it yourself, with a crochet, with double crochets, while immediately of the desired shape, most importantly, make the cells at least 5-7 mm. Patterns will not be needed to cut a canvas from a purchased mesh. Further, the columns of cells are braided with fur thread using a pin or tapestry needle. The number of skipped cells depends on the type of fur - the longer the pile, the less “airy” weaving. We braid, make sure that the fur is on top, correct where necessary. After completing the work, let's go through the comb - both from the face and from the inside. After all, we get a two-sided thing. By the way, you can even take your own ready-made and, perhaps, even worn thing, knitted with a large viscous, and braid this thing with fur thread. You can braid completely, but you can only braid the edges, or somewhere in the middle. In general, turn on the fantasy - and go!

Good to know!

When weaving along the grid, leave 2 cm free around the perimeter of the cut part (in addition to the stitching allowances). You braid the whole part, then sew it, and braid these 2 cm - then there will be no sharp seam-joint (this is very important in the armhole, otherwise it can puff up, etc.) The bottom can be immediately tucked up and braided to the bottom.

At first, we do not fix the beginning of the fur thread in any way - then we attach the thread to it in order to braid the “seams”, at the end also - let the seam into the braid, then at the very end we sew the tips to the mesh.

We unfold the fur thread at the end of the row - we pull it out to the wrong side and transfer it to the next column. If braided vertically, “pigtails” on one side and “small stripes” on the second are obtained with short fur. Both that and that side can be done with the front, - whoever likes what, but “accepted” with pigtails.

In knitting with fur, the straighter the model, the better; it is better to cut out the shelves and the back at once with a whole canvas without side seams. And braid entirely, first bending the bottom and the straps, where there will be hooks, buttons, buttons.

Braiding the base mesh with a fur ribbon.

If the fur is cut along the skin and the pile height is different on different strips, you can knit with fur either mixed or alternately. For example, we knit a scarf with fur. To begin with, we will knit the base mesh with woolen or cotton threads. Now let's start braiding with fur. First, we braid the middle of the scarf with the bellies with the shortest pile and weave in one direction, and then in the other with these bellies. Then we put stripes from the sides into action, again, in both directions. Then the backs, and at the end, stripes from the ridge - a smooth transition in the height of the pile is obtained. And on the tips, if we have tails, you can make brushes from the tails, it will be very beautiful.

You can weave on an English elastic band, then the fur will be only on the front side practically, on the wrong side only a little bit. But then the product turns out to be more voluminous, dense. If it is a hat, then it must be tied tightly around the head, because when braided with fur, it will stretch.

Tricks in working with fur

RENEWAL OF THE HAIR AND SOFTENING OF THE MEZDRA

To begin with, I advise you to use a freezer that supports -24 degrees. The old skin should be placed in such a chamber turned inside out, and placed in a canvas bag or in a cotton pillowcase. The skin should lie there for a week, The flesh will thicken from the frost. When I did this for the first time, then, pulling out the package from their refrigerator, I immediately began to pull it out and unfold it. It's good that I noticed in time that it was just splitting along the folds. I left it to thaw so that the mezdra would come into equilibrium with the microclimate in your apartment. Half a day is enough. This is the first step. Also, when moths appear, place the fur in the freezer for a couple of days.

Second. If there is a fur industry in the city, there is always (usually in canisters) all kinds of chemical impregnation for leather and menzra. For a small fee, they will always cast you and tell you how to use it. If this option is excluded - to the pharmacy for glycerin. 1-1.5 tablespoons per 1 glass of water. Soak the menzdra and fold it to each other for a couple of three days, set aside the skin. One of the girls has already described this method. (Use this option carefully, because - "When I flogged the lining, it turned out that the mezdra was barely alive and in some places it just fell off the seams, and the hairline was very greasy with glycerin.)

And then - simply. To avoid leakage of the skin from the seams. After cutting the fur, from poor quality chintz (cheap and rare material. Be sure to wash it before use to shrink) we cut the same details, only with allowances for seams. We sew the chintz to the fur with large oblique stitches. We connect the parts immediately through 4 layers - fur + chintz and chintz + fur.

Why should the chintz be of poor quality? It is loose, i.e. full of holes. Therefore, the menzdra will breathe freely. But then we just begin to treat such fur as normal, but still a little more sparing. Gently moisten (along with chintz beauty) the menzdra, I usually use a spray bottle instead of a wet sponge, and stretch (without fanaticism, sparingly) on the sew. After drying, we comb the pile and understand ... the fur is still good, it will still serve

Comb and let lie down to breathe, then you can walk with a cloth moistened with a solution of vinegar (1 teaspoon per glass of water) - just smooth it, do not wet it much - the outer pile so that it straightens and shines

Smooth out the skin. if it is scrunched up or dry, wet it with the composition = 1 teaspoon of glycerin per glass of water (sold in a pharmacy)

If it is very skukorzheno-rigidly, then more glycerin is possible

Treated with a solution of glycerin - smooth and fold 2 times with the fur out - put in a cielofane bag to soak for a day or two. then take it out and straighten it

1. Dyed with Prestige hair dye, eggplant color. I painted everything according to the paint instructions. I smeared it, waited half an hour, washed it off, smeared it with hair balm, washed it off. skins nailed with a stapler on plywood, waited until dry. Brushed with a cat brush. Painted evenly, shines, the appearance is satisfactory. I smeared it with glycerin, it became softer. only the light core did not suit. I painted it black with gel paste. The core of the gel paste was blown into about 20 grams of vodka and stirred. You have to paint twice. All dried up, and cut into strips with a razor.

STRIP CUTTING

Grid 9 * 9 mm squares - the fox normally weaves, it turns out not loose and not tight.

1. Strips about 3mm thick. Cut in an endless zigzag in the direction of hair growth. It is convenient to cut without reaching 3 mm to the end of the skin and then cut to the end. From the half of the collar, about 15 by 20 cm, 6 m of fur thread were obtained. I just folded the thread of the connection with woolen and began to knit.

2. if you cut the fur horizontally (and not along the ridge), the mezra will be visible. you need to wind the strips of fur more tightly in order to rip off this very core with an overlap of pile. With transverse cutting on one side (where the direction of growth of the fur comes from), it is too clearly visible. By trial method, I nevertheless came to the conclusion that it is necessary to cut the strips of fur along (IMHO), while winding the fur rises and turns out to be more fluffy and this hides the cuts. Well, with not very stuffed fur, sometimes a cut is still visible in some places, then it needs to be painted over to match the fur.

3. In general, fur is cut on weight. I put the skin on my knee, lift the upper part with my left hand and push the cut strip away with it, and take a knife in my right hand and cut along the edge, while holding the skin with my right hand so that it does not slip. You have to get used to it and everything will work out. The fur should not fall off, naturally there will be small remnants when cutting the mezdra, and so it remains all.

4. it is more convenient to cut a whole skin with a “stocking” in a spiral, because it will turn out to be a long thread - the very thing for knitting and the pile will be all in one direction - and this is a guarantee that the fur will not stick out in all directions, and even when we cut pieces "like if you have to" then the result is not "fur sticking out in all directions" but "fur coats" and you will twist it later, right? - the fur will "lie down" in one direction along the thread when twisting (this is convenient during the knitting process itself) when weaving, a long thread even interferes, imagine - stretching the entire skein through the cell

5. The width of the strip depends on the thickness of the fur. I cut the tails of the fox into 1-2 mm. And one more thing: such fur as a dog, a fox, etc., I would only tie

6. I measured a hat made of silver fox (such a short hair), strips of fur 5-6 cm wide were sewn onto a knitted hat, so it looked like it was made from a single skin

1. yes 1 * 1 English elastic. But I immediately warn you, knit a size smaller and knit tight, otherwise it will stretch and be big .. And knit immediately a completely finished thing. If you don’t have experience, start braiding somewhere under your arm or from the back, and don’t forget to follow the direction of the pile. Do not sew very long strips, it will be inconvenient to braid, it is better to splice along the way.

How to sew a strip of fur? and how do you wash it?

Take a fabric tape (as wide as it will be convenient for you, well, like this ... they let you in at the bottom of the trousers, etc.). the ribbon in general can be at least lace! depends on what kind of vest (maybe in 1 thread of mohair - then something "easier" is needed, for example, a lace ribbon)

Put fur on it so that the fur goes 1-2 mm onto the ribbon

Stitch (you can use a small zigzag)

1. leave it like that - if the fur is "decent" and the wrong side of it, or if a thin strip of fur is needed "airy"

2. the fur is folded in half and the unstitched edge is manually attached to the tape (a thicker edge is obtained so that the fur is on 2 sides)

The edge is ready;

Instruction

If the fur coat has scuffs on the elbows, in the middle of the shelf, sew a beautiful pillow from places untouched by time. The form can be any. Make it square, round. Perhaps you want the pillow to be in, the bones are also feasible.

Start by ripping out the old stuff. To do this, use a razor blade, but in this case, you must act very carefully so as not to cut yourself. You can do this with small scissors or a special device for ripping seams.

Lining fabric is not needed for this product, but do not throw it away either, sew a string bag. Draw the shape of the future pillow on cardboard or whatman paper, cut it out along the marked lines. Put the stencil on the wrong side of the fur coat, outline. Carefully cut with a blade along the markings, leaving a 1.5 cm seam allowance on all sides. Cut through only the core, the fur is not necessary.

Fold the 2 halves of the future pillow with the wrong sides up, sew them together, leaving an unsewn space for the hand. Turn the workpiece through it, stuff it with pieces of fabric, sindepon or batting.

Children's soft toy It is also easy to sew from an old fur coat. Make a heron or a swan. These representatives of the winged world can be created. On paper or cardboard, draw a large number 2. Make its base semicircular - this is the back of a swan. This line is curved up. Connect its two points, placing a straight line just below - this is a flat stomach. Attach a paper pattern to the wrong side of the old fur coat, cut and sew, as in the previous case.

If it's a heron, cut two identical pieces of wire to make legs out of it. Paint them red, let dry. Cut out the paws from the red fabric, the beak, like the body, stuff them with a synthetic winterizer. Attach and sew these parts of the bird into place.

To sew a bear skin from a fur coat, tear off the right and left front parts from it. From them, cut out his head, seam the parts, stuff it with batting through the hole in the bottom. Fill the sleeves with it too, sew at the bottom in the shape of the paws of the beast. Open the collar, lay the sleeves and back on the floor. Sew the head to the middle of the back.

From an old fur coat, seats for stools and chairs will turn out to be comfortable. For them, you can use not only the front and back, but also the sleeves, opening them along the seam and unfolding them. It is important that they are not worn. Cut out circles or squares, depending on the shape of your pieces of furniture. From a thin but dense fabric, cut a 3 cm wide border along the transverse line. Connect it to the cut out seat with the front parts, stitch, bend and sew to the wrong side of the cover, leaving a gap of 2 cm. Pass the elastic band through it with a pin, measure it along size of the seat, tie the ends, put on it.